|
The information provided here is by no means a complete bibliography on watches. It is hoped that the information will provide the purchaser with a better understanding of the watch
terminology
 |
Makes of Watches
What makes a brand different from the other?
This topic is lengthy but here are some
reasons
1. Source of their watch movements - manufactured by
themselves vs outsourcing
2. Quality of their finished products - materials used,
chronomater rating
3. Reliability and backup Service - accuracy of time
keeping, after sales service
4. Affordability
|
 |
Types of Watches
Quartz -Battery Operated
Kinetic -Uses the movement of the wrist to charge an energy "battery"
Manual Wind -Needs to be wound up manually to work
Self-Winding – Uses the movement of the wrist to power the watch mechanism
|
 | Movements
Chronograph - In addition to the normal timing system, have a seperate time
system consisting of sub-dials
that generally indicate second, minute and hour resolutions.
It allows the timing of a duration.
Moonphase - Displays the phases of the moon
|
 | Power
Reserve
Either an indication on the dial or
a specification as to how many hours the watch will run
without needing
winding, manually or automatically.
Some kinetic/quartz watches also have a power reserve
indicator
|
 | Luminescent Markings
Glow-in-the-dark coating that is applied to the hands and hour-markers.
|
 |
Typical Watch Case Sizes
Ladies -23mm
Unisex – 28mm
Midsize – 31mm
Gents – 34mm
Gents – 38mm
Large - above 40mm
|
 |
Watch
Body Part Explanation
END PIECE
Folded End-piece - A unit of metal, folded and cut into a designed shape to connect the bracelet with the
case.
Solid End-piece - Solid unit of metal machined and drilled to connect the bracelet with the case
LUGS/HORNS – the part where the end-piece is attached to the watch
CROWN/WINDER – Is used to adjust the time
- On wind-up watches is used to windup the watch
-generally if its pulled out to the last position, is used to set the date
GLASS - Section to protect the dial
SAPPHIRE crystal - highly scratch
resistant
MINERAL Glass
PLEXI (plastic or acrylic)
DISPLAY BACK OR SEE-THRU BACK – Usually a sapphire glass on the base case to
allow the watch
mechanism to be viewed
UNI-DIRECTIONAL BEZEL – Turns in one direction only. This
is a safety measure as accidental adjustment
means means less diving time (in the case of diver's) Can be used as a
simple timer up to 1 hour.
TUBE - On watches which have a screwed down winder, this is part on which the crown is screwed
down.
DIAL -the face of the watch
SUB DIAL a smaller dial that is used to display anything from seconds, minutes, hours, date, Moon phase
or even another dial showing a different time
zone.
|
 |
Materials
|
18KT – Yellow Gold
18KT WG – White Gold
18KT RG – Rose Gold
Solid Gold - case, bracelet, buckle & crown in solid gold.
Steel & Gold - gold parts of at least 500 microns.
Steel & Gold Cap - gold parts of at least 200 microns.
Gold Plated - at least 5 microns. (RGP)
Two Tone - less than 5 microns.
SS – Stainless Steel
 |
Watch Bracelet/Strap Materials
Leather – Teju Lizard, Croc, Ostrich, buffalo
Plastic/Rubber
Shark Skin, Kevlar
Metal 18KT, SS, Brushed SS/ Two-Tone
|
 |
Bracelets
Clasp – is the equivalent of the buckle on the strap
Double folded clasp – for extra safety
Diver's extension piece – normally concealed in the clasp, can be unclipped to
extend the entire bracelet length by about 1cm. This allows the watch to be worn
over a diving suit.
|
 |
Finishes
Polished - surface reflecting light with mirror-like brilliance.
Fine-brushed - product brushed to a smooth and elegant finish.
Sapphire-blasted - surface bombarded with microspheres of pulverized sapphire for a low-gloss effect
|
 |
Deployants
Is like a bracelet buckle which has already
been adjusted to the wrist size. It facilitates easy
removal and
fitting of
the watch.
|
 |
Quickset Date
On newer watches -the crown is generally pulled out to the first position and by simply rotating the crown,
one can adjust the date.
On older watches - one has to advance the hands past the 12 'o clock position (midnight) to have the date
incremented.
Cyclops Date Window - A Trade mark on non-diving Rolex models – it magnifies the
date by 2.5 times.
|
 | Automatic helium valve
The powerful pressure exercised on the helium reduces the size of its particles and enables it to seep
even more easily into the chronograph. When rising to the surface, the gas particles expand as the
pressure decreases, creating overpressure inside the piece. The helium valve is thus automatically
activated to allow the gas to escape and prevent any deterioration of the product
|
 | Hallmarking/Signing a watch
When manufacturers emboss their trade mark
logos on various parts of the watch
eg. Logo on the
Dial, coronet on the crown, emblem or picture
(as is the case on the constellation) on
the
back case. This is generally a
sign of a good watch
|
 |
Chronometer Rating -
COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) by which accuracy of a
watch is determined. Watches which have this rating have
passed this test. Almost all good
quality
watches have met this standard (although they may
not have the offical rating)
|
 |
NOS
- Normal but old stock. This is either a demo model or
just never sold before model. Sold with garauntee
|
 | Repeater
- seen on both clocks and watches. Normally activated by
a push button. When pressed, in the case of a half
repater, will chime/gong the number of hours passed since
midnight
|
The information provided here is by no means a complete bibliography on watches. It is hoped that the
information will provide the purchaser with a better understanding of the watch
terminology
|
|