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Glossary   

The information provided here is by no means a complete bibliography on watches. It is hoped that the information will provide the purchaser with a better understanding of the watch terminology

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Makes of Watches

What makes a brand different from the other?
This topic is lengthy but here are some reasons

1. Source of their watch movements - manufactured by themselves vs outsourcing
2. Quality of their finished products - materials used, chronomater rating 
3. Reliability and backup Service - accuracy of time keeping, after sales service
4. Affordability


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Types of Watches

Quartz -Battery Operated
Kinetic -Uses the movement of the wrist to charge an energy "battery"
Manual Wind -Needs to be wound up manually to work
Self-Winding – Uses the movement of the wrist to power the watch mechanism

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Movements

Chronograph - In addition to the normal timing system, have a seperate time system consisting of sub-dials
 that generally indicate second, minute and hour resolutions. It allows the timing of a duration.
Moonphase - Displays the phases of the moon

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Power Reserve

Either an indication on the dial or a specification as to how many hours the watch will run without needing
winding, manually or automatically. Some kinetic/quartz watches also have a power reserve indicator

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Luminescent Markings

Glow-in-the-dark coating that is applied to the hands and hour-markers. 

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Typical Watch Case Sizes

Ladies -23mm
Unisex – 28mm
Midsize – 31mm
Gents – 34mm
Gents – 38mm
Large - above 40mm 

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Watch Body Part Explanation

END PIECE 
Folded End-piece - A unit of metal, folded and cut into a designed shape to connect the bracelet with the 
case. 
Solid End-piece - Solid unit of metal machined and drilled to connect the bracelet with the case

LUGS/HORNS – the part where the end-piece  is attached to the watch 

CROWN/WINDER – Is used to adjust the time 
- On wind-up watches is used to windup the watch
-generally if its pulled out to the last position, is used to set the date 

GLASS - Section to protect the dial 

SAPPHIRE crystal  - highly scratch resistant
MINERAL Glass  
PLEXI (plastic or acrylic)

DISPLAY BACK OR SEE-THRU BACK – Usually a sapphire glass on the base case to allow the watch
mechanism to be viewed
UNI-DIRECTIONAL BEZEL – Turns in one direction only. This is a safety measure as accidental adjustment
means means less diving time (in the case of diver's) Can be used as a simple timer up to 1 hour. 

TUBE - On watches which have a screwed down winder, this is part on which the crown is screwed 
down.
DIAL -the face of the watch
SUB DIAL a smaller dial that is used to display anything from seconds, minutes, hours, date, Moon phase 
or even another dial showing a different time zone. 

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Materials

18KT – Yellow Gold
18KT WG – White Gold
18KT RG – Rose Gold

Solid Gold - case, bracelet, buckle & crown in solid gold. 
Steel & Gold - gold parts of at least 500 microns. 
Steel & Gold Cap - gold parts of at least 200 microns. 
Gold Plated - at least 5 microns.  (RGP)
Two Tone - less than 5 microns. 

SS – Stainless Steel

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Watch Bracelet/Strap Materials 

Leather – Teju Lizard, Croc, Ostrich, buffalo
Plastic/Rubber 
Shark Skin, Kevlar 
Metal 18KT, SS, Brushed SS/ Two-Tone 

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Bracelets

Clasp – is the equivalent of the buckle on the strap
Double folded clasp – for extra safety 
Diver's extension piece – normally concealed in the clasp, can be unclipped to 
extend the entire bracelet length by about 1cm. This allows the watch to be worn 
over a diving suit.

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Finishes
Polished - surface reflecting light with mirror-like brilliance. 
Fine-brushed - product brushed to a smooth and elegant finish. 
Sapphire-blasted - surface bombarded with microspheres of pulverized sapphire for a low-gloss effect

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Deployants

Is like a bracelet buckle which has already been adjusted to the wrist size. It facilitates easy removal and
 fitting of the watch.

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Quickset Date

On newer watches -the crown is generally pulled out to the first position and by simply rotating the crown,
one can adjust the date. 
On older watches - one has to advance the hands past the 12 'o clock position (midnight) to have the date
 incremented. 
Cyclops Date Window - A Trade mark on non-diving Rolex models – it magnifies the date by 2.5 times.

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Automatic helium valve

The powerful pressure exercised on the helium reduces the size of its particles and enables it to seep 
even more easily into the chronograph. When rising to the surface, the gas particles expand as the 
pressure decreases, creating overpressure inside the piece. The helium valve is thus automatically 
activated to allow the gas to escape and prevent any deterioration of the product

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Hallmarking/Signing a watch 

When manufacturers emboss their trade mark logos on various parts of  the  watch
eg. Logo on the Dial, coronet on the crown, emblem or picture   (as is the case on the constellation) on the
back case. This is generally a sign of a good watch

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Chronometer Rating  - COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) by which accuracy of a 
watch is determined. Watches which have this rating have passed this test.
 Almost all good quality 
watches have met this standard (although they may not have the offical rating)

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NOS - Normal but old stock. This is either a demo model or just never sold before model. Sold with garauntee

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Repeater - seen on both clocks and watches. Normally activated by a push button. When pressed, in  the case of a half repater, will chime/gong the number of hours passed since midnight

The information provided here is by no means a complete bibliography on watches. It is hoped that the information will provide the purchaser with a better understanding of the watch terminology

 
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